The Moai Statue is known as the symbol of Shibuya Station in Tokyo. Its unique appearance has long been a popular meeting place and has become a familiar presence to many people. However, surprisingly few people know that the statue originated in Niijima, far from Shibuya. To explore the origins of the Moai Statue, we visited Niijima, one of the Izu Islands.

Journey to Niijima

There are two routes to Niijima: by ferry or by plane. The ferry departs from Takeshiba Pier in Tokyo, and the journey takes about two hours and 20 minutes on a high-speed jet boat, or about eight and a half hours if you take an overnight large ferry. On the other hand, if you fly from Chofu Airport, you'll arrive in just 35 minutes, and because you'll be flying at low altitude on a small propeller plane, you can enjoy a different view than you would on a regular flight. This time, we chose to fly and headed straight to Niijima.

We head to Niijima in a small propeller plane that can accommodate 19 passengers. Compared to a jet plane, we are closer to the land, so we can enjoy a bird's-eye view.

We landed at Niijima Airport. There are sculptures made of Koga stone on the premises, and you can immediately get the feeling that you have come to Niijima.

Niijima is an island located about 157km south of Tokyo. Its circumference is about 41.6km, and it is home to about 2,000 people. The sight of powerful waves crashing onto the beautiful white sand beach is a dream come true for surfers, and various beach activities such as diving are also popular.

The entire island is volcanic, and the unique volcanic rock "Koga stone" is said to be found only on Niijima and on the island of Lipari in southern Italy. This stone is highly heat-resistant and easy to process, making it a material for buildings and sculptures, and has become deeply rooted in island life. The background to the creation of the Moai statue on Niijima is the fact that a culture of utilizing Koga stone is alive and well.

The origin of the Moai Statue on Niijima dates back to 1964, when an island artist began carving the statue based on the Moai statue on Easter Island as part of an effort to revitalize the island. The name Moai Statue is not just a play on the word Moai. It embodies the spirit of "moyai," which means "helping each other" on the island. The Moai Statue was created not just as a tourist attraction, but as a symbol of the feelings of the islanders who have lived together helping each other in a harsh natural environment.

Moyai statue watching over the scenic spot

It's not hard to find Moai statues on Niijima, as there are over 100 of them scattered all over the island. Our first stop was Ishiyama Observatory (Mukaiyama Observatory), about a 15-minute drive from the airport. This observation deck, located past the Kogaishi quarry with its huge exposed rocks, is a scenic spot with a panoramic view of Habushiura Beach, the blue ocean in the distance, and Shikinejima. Here too, the Moai statue stands as if watching over the view, welcoming all visitors.

The main gate of Habushiura, Niijima's leading surf spot. Characterized by long white sandy beaches and powerful, beautiful waves, it attracts many surfers from both within Japan and overseas.

At Ishiyama Observatory, the Moai statue quietly welcomes visitors, with Shikinejima floating behind it across the blue sea.

From Ishiyama Observatory, drive for about 20 minutes towards the city center. In one corner of the area is an area called "Sangoi Road," where a unique landscape surrounded by koga stone walls spreads out before you. This rustic and somewhat nostalgic place still has a koga stone pigsty that was once built for practical purposes. This pigsty was used as a building to protect livestock, but is now preserved as a cultural heritage that symbolizes the koga stone unique to Niijima. Its appearance gives a sense of the wisdom and history of Niijima.

Walking along the Sand Ringo Road, you can sense the past life and culture of Niijima, and the scenery gives you the feeling that time is passing slowly.

The buildings made from koga stone have a solid, heavy feel and an old, worn appearance that can be seen over a long period of time. You can see the traces of people who once lived here and coexisted with nature.

A street where pigsty made of koga stone still remain.

Relax in the open-air Yunohama hot springs

Niijima is a volcanic island, so visiting hot springs is one of the most popular activities. Particularly famous is Yunohama Open-Air Hot Springs. This hot spring is located in a great location overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and you can enjoy the luxury of soaking in natural hot springs while feeling the sea breeze. It is open 24 hours a day, free of charge, and you can enjoy the hot springs while watching the beautiful sunset in the evening and the starry sky at night. It is the perfect spot to experience the natural blessings of Niijima.

The Yunohama outdoor hot springs is an eye-catching ancient Greek-style building made from koga stone. You will feel as if you are one with nature, and will want to stay in the baths forever.

During the trip, I was able to see countless Moai statues, which are impressive for their warm texture that is unique to Koga stone. Each one has a unique expression, and I was excited to see what kind of Moai statue would appear next. The Moai statues, which are installed to blend into the island's scenery, not only entertain tourists, but also seem to be a symbol of the culture that the islanders of Niijima have cultivated.

You can encounter Moai statues with various expressions while touring the tourist spots. Discovering them will fill the gaps in your travel time and add color to your stay on Niijima.

Finishing the trip to Niijima

I returned to Shibuya and visited the Moai Statue once again after it had been relocated. Perhaps because it was a little away from the hustle and bustle of the station, there were no large crowds and a calm atmosphere. Still, the Moai Statue's unique presence remained unchanged, drawing the attention of people passing by on the street.

Its expression was the same as the familiar Moai statue, but after learning about its roots and background during my trip to Niijima, I was able to look at it from a different perspective. The Moai statue now feels even more special, not just as an objet d'art on a street corner, but as a symbol of Niijima's nature, culture, and the feelings of its people.

The Moai Statue speaks silently to passers-by. When you understand the thoughts that the islanders have put into it, your perspective on the statue changes entirely.

Interview and writing: Ryota Ninomiya / Location photography: Osamu Matsuba