Shibuya is often called a "city that is constantly changing." But it's not just the newly emerging landscapes that shape this city. The buildings, mixed-use buildings, slopes, signs, and back alleys that have been familiar for many years—these are where people's memories, activities, and Shibuya's unique culture have accumulated. In "Shibuya Landscape Records," we will document Shibuya's cultural landscape, paying attention not only to the changing face of the city amidst redevelopment, but also to the landscapes that have remained.

This edition of the landscape journal features the "Onko Gakkai Kaikan" (Onko Society Hall). It stands in a quiet residential area on a hill between Ebisu Station and Shibuya Station, adjacent to Kokugakuin University and Hikawa Shrine. The building was constructed to preserve the woodblocks of works such as the "Gunsho Ruiju" (Collection of Classified Books), compiled by Hanawa Hokiichi, a blind scholar from the Edo period, and to pass on his legacy to future generations.

左＝正面入口の門柱には「温故学会」の文字が刻まれている　右＝玄関口の左手では、塙保己一の銅像が出迎える

The construction of the building was initiated by Hanawa Hokiichi 's great-grandson, Hanawa Tadao, and Shibusawa Eiichi, among others, who called upon volunteers from various fields to cooperate and received donations from all over the country. Construction began in August 1926 (Taisho 15) and was completed in March of the following year, 1927 (Showa 2). It was completed amidst the ongoing reconstruction following the Great Kanto Earthquake.

The building was designed and constructed by Shimizu-gumi (now Shimizu Corporation). To protect the valuable woodblocks from earthquakes and fires, reinforced concrete construction was adopted, resulting in a robust building that prioritized earthquake and fire resistance.

中央の玄関及び階段を軸とし、左右対称に扇型に開く建物

The exterior features a symmetrical design resembling outstretched wings, characterized by a heavy, imposing structure with minimal windows. Prioritizing its function as a storage facility for woodblocks, the front and back are lined with buttresses (supporting walls) that reinforce the main walls. These not only provide robust structural support to the building but also create a unique rhythm in its exterior.

開口部の広い玄関ポーチ

On the other hand, a circular entrance porch protrudes from the center, and even within the unpretentious storage facility, one can see design elements characteristic of early Showa-era modern architecture.

左＝入口を入ると正面には、傾斜角度が急な階段が伸びる　右＝手すりは手触りの良い木製で、鉄筋コンクリート造の建物にぬくもりを添える

Stepping inside the building, the gently curving staircase railing directly in front of you immediately catches the eye.

コンクリートの階段、鉄製の支柱、木製の手すりが絶妙なバランスで調和する。「この先はどうなっているのか」と想像をかき立てる、先の読めない手すりの曲線も印象的だ

As you enter the building, the first floor on the left is used as an office and the second floor as an auditorium, while the first and second floors on the right house a woodblock storage facility (only the first floor is open to the public). This storage facility is the greatest asset that the Onko Gakkai Hall has continued to protect.

Hanawa Hokiichi was born in 1746 (Enkyo 3) in what is now Honjo City, Saitama Prefecture. He lost his sight at the age of seven, but never lost his passion for learning. He honed his skills in Edo and became one of Japan's leading scholars of Japanese classics.

The "Gunsho Ruiju," which he began working on at the age of 34, is known as a major collection of books that collected and edited valuable classical texts scattered throughout Japan, and was published to preserve them for future generations.

1階右手にある「版木収蔵庫」。１、2階にある収蔵庫では200年前の版木約1万7000枚が大切に保管されている

The collection includes over 1,270 documents, categorized into 25 sections such as Shinto, history, literature, diaries, and waka poetry, representing a vast accumulation of knowledge that can be considered fundamental to Japanese culture.

左＝版木は文字を左右逆（鏡文字）にして、一つひとつ彫刻刀で彫り上げられている　右＝版木で刷った美しい文字

Approximately 17,000 woodblocks were used for the printing. All were made of cherry wood and are still carefully preserved in the museum's storage facility. The collection of woodblocks was designated a National Important Cultural Property (Fine Arts and Crafts/Historical Materials) in 1957. The Onko Gakkai Kaikan, which has continued to protect these materials, was also registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) in 2000.

In fact, these woodblocks have survived numerous disasters.

During the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, the warehouse where the woodblocks were stored at the time collapsed. Afterwards, they were moved to the current building, but the surrounding area was destroyed in the Tokyo air raids of 1945. Incendiary bombs flew into the building, but the chairman at the time, Shigezaburo Saito, threw them out, and miraculously, the building and the woodblocks escaped destruction.

温故学会では当時の版木を使って印刷・製本し、冊子を販売している

The "Gunsho Ruiju," which has been continuously printed for approximately 200 years, has published over 700,000 copies and is used by research institutions and universities both domestically and internationally. It is no exaggeration to say that its achievements have laid the foundation for transmitting Japanese classical culture to the modern age.

「講堂」として活用されている2階の和室（通常は非公開）

Surprisingly, there is also a Japanese-style room on the second floor. The incorporation of a Japanese space within a modern reinforced concrete building is unusual, and the original fixtures, ceilings, and floor finishes have been carefully preserved to this day. This Japanese-style room has been used as an auditorium for academic meetings, lectures, and ceremonies.

同学会の初代理事長を務めた渋沢栄一による「温故而知新」の書

Inside the building hangs a calligraphy piece by Eiichi Shibusawa, using his pen name "Seien," which reads "Onko ji Chishin" (learning from the past to understand the present). The name of the Onko Gakkai (Onko Society) comes from a line in the Analects of Confucius, "Learn from the old to understand the present." This calligraphy was written by Shibusawa, who turned 88 (a milestone birthday) in the year the building was completed, and it has become a symbol of the society's philosophy.

Furthermore, another historical episode is associated with this place.

ヘレン・ケラーが訪れた際に、手を触れて涙を流したと言われる「塙保己一の銅像」

1937（昭和12）年、アメリカの教育家で社会福祉活動家のヘレン・ケラーが温故学会を訪問した。幼い頃から母親に「塙保己一を手本にしなさい」と教えられて育ったというヘレンは、保己一の像や愛用の机に触れながら、その偉業に深い敬意を表したという。

"Being able to touch the statue of the professor was the most meaningful thing about my visit to Japan."

He is said to have said so.

The Onko Gakkai Kaikan (Onko Society Hall) stands quietly on a hill in Shibuya. Its exterior is by no means flashy. However, inside, a vast intellectual heritage that supports Japanese culture and the dedication of the people who have continued to protect it breathe life into the place.

In Shibuya, where the landscape is constantly changing due to redevelopment, this building continues to quietly convey the message that "preserving the old connects to the future."

取材・執筆：フジイタカシ　/　撮影：松葉理
※写真は2026年5月23日、「東京建築祭2026」の特別公開時に撮影

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